I might have mentioned this a few times before, but I'm a bit of a make-up and skincare freak, and I'm constantly trying to pick up new tricks. Recently, a makeup artist taught me to use powder sparingly and strategically, rather than sloppily dusting it all over and hoping my makeup stayed put.
When you obliterate shine all over your face, it can end up looking a little dusty and old-ladyish. No matter what your skin type is, that is never a good look for anyone!! Working with shine and not against it makes for a much fresher face. I like to amp up the shine with some tricky highlighter and luminizer to give some extra dimensionality and glow.
First off, before I get started I should start with some skin basics...common sense, mostly!
- The real key to glowing skin is taking care of yourself. Lots of water, less pizza, go to bed early, try to be more zen, all of those very difficult things. It's especially important to wash your face twice a day. Using very hot water is a must. A gentle toner will do wonders for your skin. I have always found most foaming cleansers to be too harsh. I am extremely happy with Dr. Hauschka's cleansing milk! I do a Andalou Naturals glycolic pumpkin mask and Fresh Black Tea Perfecting mask two times a week. I am always trying new moisturizers, right now it's Dr. Hauschka's Melissa day cream.
- I'm an exfoliation freak and the dermatologist reccomended 3-times a week is not enough exfoliation for me! I exfoliate every other day and always use a gritty washcloth when I wash my face to remove product residue and daily build-up. The gritty washcloth makes an enormous difference. If you don't have a smooth canvas to put your makeup on, it will just not look as good.
- Use moisturizer extremely liberally. Your skin will love you for it.
- If you do not wash your makeup brushes constantly, they will give you pimples. Washing your face brushes twice a week in hot water with shampoo is really important!
Perfecting your base
- Use your favorite foundation, if you are so inclined. I don't always use foundation, but I personally have always believed it's better for your skin to wear a little. Unpopular opinion, I know. It's a good barrier between your face and the stuff outside! I really, really love Bobbi Brown foundations--you WILL find a shade that matches your skin tone! I like to apply Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich foundation with a stipling brush.
- Cover under eye circles with a creamy concealer. Use your ring finger to roll concealer as close you possibly can to your lash line, and cover your inner corners as well. You can use a heavier concealer to hide any blemishes.
- Set your concealer by gently rolling a small semi-fluffy brush full of translucent powder under your eyes and anywhere else you put concealer. Repeat if you feel it's going to be necessary. (muggy days, long shifts, etc)
- Set your foundation with a little bit of powder, but only powder where it counts. My oiliest areas are my eyelids, around my nostrils, my chin, and the very center of my forhead. I use a very small blush brush to apply my translucent powder because the point is to GLOW!
Now...amp up the glow! I hope my silly diagram is helpful.
- For an extremely natural makeup look, I think it is important to use as many cream products as possible. Cream blushes, luminizers, and eyeshadows will mesh with your skins texture, instead of just sitting on it like powder does.
- For my blush, I use Bobbi Brown cream blushes in a hot pink, and slightly darker shade of pink. I put the darker shade of pink under my cheek bones and the brighter shade of pink above my cheekbones for subtle contouring. I feather them out towards my temples.
- Luminzer makes everyone pretty and looks very ethereal. Almost every makeup line has one now. I use Fresh's Satin Luster Face Pallete and I am in love with it! It has a peach, pink, and white highlighter. Use whatever suits your skin tone. I made a diagram to show where I put it, and where I concentrate it. I make the white highlighter double as eyeshadow and like to put a lot in my inner corners. I smudge the remainder on my temples.
- Highlighter is not just for your face! I use a Maybelline white sparkly eye pencil liberally under my eyes, concentrating it on the inner corners. Sometimes I use a liquid white glitter liner over it for a dramatic pop. I use the same white sparkly eye pencil on the cupid's bow of my lips.
- White-gold lip gloss is amazing. Use it as highlighter for your lips. I put a big dab of NARS Lip Gloss in Albatross in the center of my lips. It makes them look MUCH fuller! You must have a tube of it in your life. I put a sheer red lipstick on before I do my lip highlighter usually--they wear off nicely and are a no-brainer to put on.
I find after I put on blush and shine, I don't want too much else! I throw on some mascara and a thin liner on top, and that is the most I'll ever do. The finished product is supposed to be pretty natural!