I might have mentioned this a few times before, but I'm a bit of a make-up and skincare freak, and I'm constantly trying to pick up new tricks. Recently, a makeup artist taught me to use powder sparingly and strategically, rather than sloppily dusting it all over and hoping my makeup stayed put.

When you obliterate shine all over your face, it can end up looking a little dusty and old-ladyish. No matter what your skin type is, that is never a good look for anyone!!  Working with shine and not against it makes for a much fresher face. I like to amp up the shine with some tricky highlighter and luminizer to give some extra dimensionality and glow.

First off, before I get started I should start with some skin basics...common sense, mostly!

  • The real key to glowing skin is taking care of yourself. Lots of water, less pizza, go to bed early, try to be more zen, all of those very difficult things. It's especially important to wash your face twice a day. Using very hot water is a must. A gentle toner will do wonders for your skin. I have always found most foaming cleansers to be too harsh. I am extremely happy with Dr. Hauschka's cleansing milk! I do a Andalou Naturals glycolic pumpkin mask and Fresh Black Tea Perfecting mask two times a week. I am always trying new moisturizers, right now it's Dr. Hauschka's Melissa day cream.
  • I'm an exfoliation freak and the dermatologist reccomended 3-times a week is not enough exfoliation for me! I exfoliate every other day and always use a gritty washcloth when I wash my face to remove product residue and daily build-up. The gritty washcloth makes an enormous difference. If you don't have a smooth canvas to put your makeup on, it will just not look as good.
  • Use moisturizer extremely liberally. Your skin will love you for it.
  • If you do not wash your makeup brushes constantly, they will give you pimples. Washing your face brushes twice a week in hot water with shampoo is really important!

Perfecting your base

  • Use your favorite foundation, if you are so inclined. I don't always use foundation, but I personally have always believed it's better for your skin to wear a little. Unpopular opinion, I know. It's a good barrier between your face and the stuff outside! I really, really love Bobbi Brown foundations--you WILL find a shade that matches your skin tone! I like to apply Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich foundation with a stipling brush.
  • Cover under eye circles with a creamy concealer. Use your ring finger to roll concealer as close you possibly can to your lash line, and cover your inner corners as well. You can use a  heavier concealer to hide any blemishes.
  • Set your concealer by gently rolling a small semi-fluffy brush full of translucent powder under your eyes and anywhere else you put concealer. Repeat if you feel it's going to be necessary. (muggy days, long shifts, etc)
  • Set your foundation with a little bit of powder, but only powder where it counts. My oiliest areas are my eyelids, around my nostrils, my chin, and the very center of my forhead. I use a very small blush brush to apply my translucent powder because the point is to GLOW!

Now...amp up the glow! I hope my silly diagram is helpful.



  • For an extremely natural makeup look, I think it is important to use as many cream products as possible. Cream blushes, luminizers, and eyeshadows will mesh with your skins texture, instead of just sitting on it like powder does.
  • For my blush, I use Bobbi Brown cream blushes in a hot pink, and slightly darker shade of pink. I put the darker shade of pink under my cheek bones and the brighter shade of pink above my cheekbones for subtle contouring. I feather them out towards my temples.
  • Luminzer makes everyone pretty and looks very ethereal. Almost every makeup line has one now. I use Fresh's Satin Luster Face Pallete and I am in love with it! It has a peach, pink, and white highlighter. Use whatever suits your skin tone. I made a diagram to show where I put it, and where I concentrate it. I make the white highlighter double as eyeshadow and like to put a lot in my inner corners. I smudge the remainder on my temples.
  • Highlighter is not just for your face! I use a Maybelline white sparkly eye pencil liberally under my eyes, concentrating it on the inner corners. Sometimes I use a liquid white glitter liner over it for a dramatic pop. I use the same white sparkly eye pencil on the cupid's bow of my lips.
  • White-gold lip gloss is amazing. Use it as highlighter for your lips. I put a big dab of NARS Lip Gloss in Albatross in the center of my lips. It makes them look MUCH fuller! You must have a tube of it in your life. I put a sheer red lipstick on before I do my lip highlighter usually--they wear off nicely and are a no-brainer to put on.

I find after I put on blush and shine, I don't want too much else! I throw on some mascara and a thin liner on top, and that is the most I'll ever do. The finished product is supposed to be pretty natural!


Rachel Montgomery Make Up Artist

I am totally obsessed with Rachel Montgomery Make Up Artist, Click Here to be directed to her site.

Please note these images are strictly copyright to Sebastian Kriete and cannot be reproduced without permission.

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The Cat Eye,

Wings of Desire
Audrey Hepburn also deserves credit for popularizing the winged liner look as Holly Golightly in 1961's Breakfast at Tiffany's. The actress was blessed with dark velvet eyes that tilted up naturally at the outer corners, making her a perfect poster child for the thin, flicked line. Her on-set makeup artist on the iconic film, Wally Westmore, reportedly alternated brown and black liner with shadow, depending on whether they were shooting day or night scenes.

La Bella Donna
Sophia Loren was fond of applying black liner slightly beyond her eyes, even angling the tip down subtly to accentuate her natural almond shape. Piles of mascara completed her signature va-va-voom look, which was the subject of an homage at Dolce & Gabbana's molto italiano Spring show.

…And God Created Bardot
Brigitte Bardot rimmed her cat-shaped eyes with thick black pigment, applying layer after layer of liner, with an uptick equal to the width of a pinky finger. Decades later, the blonde bombshell is still the go-to example for looking sexy without trying too hard.

Mod Squad
Mad Men has cemented our modern obsession with all things sixties, including cat-eyes. Lana Horochowski, the show's head makeup artist, relies on pots of MAC's Fluidline liner in Blacktrack and individual lashes applied at the corners to faithfully re-create Christina Hendricks' retro style.

Très Jolie
Angelina Jolie's cat-eye looks dark and vampish one moment, then refined and polished the next. The trick is in the angle of the flick—a straighter line conveys grace while a harder, curled edge befits her Oscar-winning, blood vial-drinking days circa 2000.

Fluoro Fabulous
When Lily Allen burst onto the scene in the early aughts, she brought her own adaptation of the cat-eye with her, i.e., flicked-up tips in neon shades of professional Kryolan pigments. Somewhat partial to orange, Allen was also known for dabbling in Day-Glo pink and green, but ultimately she went back to black with Chanel's Écriture de Chanel classic pen.

Kate the Great
Kate Moss recently revealed that her 9-year-old daughter "likes the fresh-faced, natural mummy," but we prefer our Kate with her signature black liner intact and drawn on with a slight, imperfect tip. Except, that is, when makeup artist Pat McGrath is doing the scrawling, as was the case backstage at Louis Vuitton last season. Pure perfection.

Sideways Glances
Unhinged housewives from the fifties inspired the striking cat-eyes at Jonathan Saunders' Spring 2012 show, where lead makeup artist Lucia Pieroni stroked on MAC's Fluidline in Blacktrack using its tapered #263 Small Angle Brush. The curving lines were so extended they could be seen from the sides of the models' faces.

Ciao, Bella
Backstage at Dolce & Gabbana, the brand's The Make Up color consultant, Pat McGrath, channeled Sophia Loren with a glamorous winged design, using a quarter strip of faux lashes and multiple coats of mascara to ensure the final look was true to the screen siren's original style.

Seeing Double
Giorgio Armani international makeup artist Linda Cantello provided her own update for Spring, scrawling not one but two iridescent black flicks onto lids at Giorgio Armani for lines that glowed like "watery reflections."


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